Licorice root

Licorice root extract is a versatile K-Beauty ingredient valued for its gentle brightening properties and anti-inflammatory effects, especially for sensitive skin and skin prone to hyperpigmentation.

Licorice root extract is a gentle all-rounder that simultaneously brightens, soothes, and protects against free radicals. Its exceptional tolerability makes it an ideal entry point into the world of brightening active ingredients.

What is Licorice Root Extract?

Licorice root extract is derived from the roots of the licorice plant (Glycyrrhiza glabra), which has been used in traditional Chinese and Korean medicine for over 4000 years. Known as 감초 in Korea, this ingredient contains over 300 bioactive compounds, with glabridin and glycyrrhizin being the most important skin-benefiting components.

In modern cosmetics, licorice root extract has established itself as one of the gentlest and most effective natural brighteners. Unlike aggressive chemical lighteners, it works by gently inhibiting tyrosinase, the key enzyme in melanin production, without causing irritation.

The particular strength of the extract lies in its multifunctionality: it combines brightening properties with strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effects. This combination makes it the perfect companion for sensitive skin prone to hyperpigmentation, but which reacts to stronger active ingredients with redness or dryness.

How Licorice Root Extract Works on Your Skin

Gentle Pigment Lightening

The glabridin contained in licorice root inhibits tyrosinase activity by up to 50%, as demonstrated by a study by Yokota et al. (Journal of Investigative Dermatology, 1998). This enzymatic inhibition leads to a gradual reduction of dark spots and a more even complexion, without affecting the natural skin barrier.

Anti-inflammatory Properties

Glycyrrhizin, the second main active ingredient, shows impressive anti-inflammatory effects. Research by Akamatsu et al. (Skin Pharmacology and Physiology, 2003) documented a significant reduction in skin redness and irritation with regular use. This property makes the extract particularly valuable for acne-prone or irritated skin.

Antioxidant Protective Effect

The flavonoids in licorice root neutralize free radicals and protect against UV-induced skin damage. A study by Lee et al. (Food and Chemical Toxicology, 2011) showed that the extract stimulates collagen production and simultaneously slows down the breakdown of existing collagen fibers.

Skin Soothing and Irritation Relief

For sensitive or stressed skin, licorice root extract acts like a natural antihistamine. Its soothing properties reduce feelings of tightness and support skin regeneration, especially after dermo-cosmetic treatments or for weather-related skin irritations.

Moisture Regulation

Although primarily used as a brightener, licorice root extract also contributes to improving skin hydration. The polysaccharides it contains form a fine film on the skin's surface and reduce transepidermal water loss.

Who is Licorice Root Extract Suitable For?

Integration into your K-Beauty Routine

Time of Application: Licorice root extract can be used both in the morning and in the evening. Since it is not photosensitizing, daily use is safe.

Routine Placement: Products with licorice root typically belong in the serum or treatment phase (Step 4-6). After cleansing and toner, but before moisturizer and sunscreen.

Combination Rules: Licorice root extract pairs excellently with niacinamide, vitamin C, and hyaluronic acid. Combining it with other brighteners like arbutin or kojic acid enhances the brightening effect. For sensitive skin, the simultaneous use of strong exfoliants like AHA or BHA should initially be avoided.

Introduction Phase: Although very well tolerated, a slow build-up is recommended for first-time users: Start with 2-3 times a week, then gradually increase to daily use.

The Best K-Beauty Products with Licorice Root Extract

iUNIK Centella Calming Daily Sunscreen – 60 ml (EUR 16.90) combines licorice root with Centella Asiatica for ultimate protection of sensitive skin. The formula soothes irritations and simultaneously prevents UV-induced hyperpigmentation.

Medicube Red Cream 2.0 – 50 ml (EUR 25.20) uses licorice root extract as part of an innovative anti-redness formula. Ideal for skin prone to rosacea and for treating post-acne marks.

Yadah Anti-T Zero Spot Cream – 15 ml (EUR 36.90) is a highly concentrated spot treatment that specifically uses licorice root to brighten stubborn hyperpigmentation. Perfect for targeted application.

Abib Gummy Sheet Sedum Hyaluron Sticker – 27 ml (EUR 3.90) offers an innovative patch solution with licorice root for intensive local treatment. The hydrogel technology enhances active ingredient penetration.

THE SAEM Natural Tea Tree Mask Sheet – 21 ml (EUR 1.99) combines soothing Tea Tree Oil with brightening licorice root extract – a budget-friendly solution for weekly intensive care.

Licorice Root Extract vs. Other Brighteners

Myths and Facts

Myth: Licorice root extract works as fast as chemical brighteners.
Fact: The effect is gentler and develops over 6-12 weeks. However, it causes no irritation or rebound effects upon discontinuation.

Myth: Natural active ingredients are always weaker than synthetic ones.
Fact: Glabridin from licorice root has shown stronger brightening effects in studies than synthetic alternatives, but with better skin tolerability.

Myth: Licorice root can completely bleach the skin.
Fact: The extract exclusively lightens hyperpigmentation and respects the natural skin tone. Complete depigmentation is not possible.

Frequently Asked Questions

How long does it take to see results?
Initial improvements are visible after 4-6 weeks, with optimal results after 3-6 months of continuous use.

Can I combine licorice root extract with retinol?
Yes, the combination is possible and even beneficial. Use retinol in the evening and licorice root in the morning or alternate.

Is the ingredient suitable for pregnant women?
Licorice root extract in cosmetic concentrations is considered safe, but use should be discussed with a doctor.

Does licorice root make the skin more photosensitive?
No, unlike other brighteners, licorice root extract does not cause photosensitivity.

Can the extract cause allergies?
Allergic reactions are very rare. If you have a known licorice allergy, a patch test should be performed.

What should be the concentration in products?
Effective concentrations range between 0.5% and 2%. Higher dosages do not provide additional benefit.

Does licorice root also work for post-acne marks?
Yes, especially well, as its anti-inflammatory properties support healing and prevent new discolorations.

Can I use the extract daily?
Yes, daily use is safe and recommended for optimal results. Start with a low frequency for very sensitive skin.