PHA (gluconolactone)

PHA (gluconolactone) is a third-generation chemical peel with particularly large molecules that gently renew the top layer of skin while providing moisture.

INCI Name	Gluconolactone / Lactobionic Acid
Category	Chemical Peel
Suitable for	All skin types, especially sensitive skin
Typical Concentration	1-10% in K-Beauty products

Active Ingredient Scorecard

Property	Rating
Gentleness	★★★★★
Exfoliating effect	★★★☆☆
Moisturizing	★★★★☆
Anti-Aging	★★★☆☆
Tolerance	★★★★★

PHA revolutionizes the world of chemical peels with its exceptionally gentle action and effective skin renewal. The large molecules penetrate slower, providing a particularly tolerable peeling experience with additional moisturizing properties.

What is PHA (Gluconolactone)?

Polyhydroxy acids, or PHAs, represent the latest generation of chemical peels and have established themselves as a game-changer in the K-Beauty scene. The most well-known representative is gluconolactone (글루코노락톤), a naturally occurring acid originally derived from glucose. In contrast to their small-molecule relatives AHA and BHA, PHA molecules have a significantly larger structure, which explains their particularly gentle action.

The special feature of PHA lies in its dual function: while it gently exfoliates the skin, it also binds moisture. This property makes it an ideal ingredient for people with sensitive skin who previously had to forgo chemical peels. Korean cosmetics manufacturers recognized the potential of PHA early on and continuously develop innovative formulations that optimally utilize this acid.

PHAs are formed by the oxidation of sugars and possess several hydroxyl groups, which are responsible for their moisturizing properties. This molecular structure allows them to act as humectants and bind up to 1000 times their own weight in water. Thus, they combine peeling action with intense hydration in one ingredient.

How PHA works on your skin

Gentle Exfoliation without Irritation

The large molecular structure of PHA leads to slower penetration into the skin, which drastically reduces the risk of irritation. A study by Bernstein et al. (2001) in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology showed that PHA achieves comparable exfoliation to AHA, but with 50% less skin irritation. The acid gently dissolves the bonds between dead skin cells and promotes their natural shedding.

Moisturizing Effect

Unlike other acids, PHA does not dry out the skin but actively moisturizes it. The multiple hydroxyl groups in the molecule act as natural moisture magnets. Research by Green et al. (2009) shows that skin moisture increases by up to 25% with regular PHA application, while the barrier function is strengthened.

Antioxidant Properties

Gluconolactone has proven antioxidant properties that neutralize free radicals and thus counteract premature skin aging. Studies show that PHA reduces oxidative stress in skin cells and supports collagen production. This double action makes it a valuable anti-aging ingredient.

Improvement of the Skin Barrier

PHA strengthens the natural skin barrier by promoting ceramide synthesis and regulating transepidermal water loss. A clinical study by Draelos (2007) documented a 30% improvement in barrier function after eight weeks of PHA application.

Support for Skin Regeneration

By gently removing dead skin cells, PHA stimulates natural cell renewal without overstressing the skin. This leads to a more even complexion and refined texture. The skin appears smoother and has a natural glow.

Who is PHA suitable for?

Skin Type	Suitability	Special Benefits
Sensitive skin	Excellent	Gentle exfoliation without irritation
Dry skin	Very good	Additional hydration
Normal skin	Very good	Preventive anti-aging effect
Combination skin	Good	Balancing effect
Oily skin	Conditional	Gentle pore refinement
Rosacea-prone skin	Excellent	No worsening of redness

Integration into your K-Beauty Routine

PHA can be flexibly integrated into any K-Beauty routine and is suitable for both morning and evening use. Unlike AHA and BHA, PHA does not increase photosensitivity, making morning application safe. Nevertheless, you should never skip sunscreen.

In the classic K-Beauty order, PHA products are used after cleansing and before serums. Toners with PHA are applied directly after cleansing, while pads can be used as an additional treatment step. The gentle nature of PHA allows for daily use, even for sensitive skin. However, start with 2-3 applications per week and gradually increase the frequency.

PHA combines excellently with other ingredients. Hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and Centella Asiatica work particularly synergistically. Combination with mild retinol derivatives is also possible. However, avoid simultaneous use with highly concentrated AHA or BHA to prevent over-exfoliation.

The best K-Beauty products with PHA

Toners & Essences

The SKIN1004 Madagascar Centella Toning Toner combines PHA with soothing Centella Asiatica for a particularly gentle peeling experience. The formulation is ideal for daily use and optimally prepares the skin for subsequent care steps.

Treatment Pads

The Medicube Zero Pore Pad Mild offers convenient application of PHA in pad form. They are perfect for targeted treatment of specific skin areas and are particularly travel-friendly.

Intensive Serums

The Isntree Hyper Acid4 30 Serum combines various acids, including PHA, for comprehensive skin improvement. The formulation is very well tolerated despite the combination of acids and delivers visible results.

Body Care

The SOME BY MI AHA-BHA-PHA 30 Days Miracle Acne Clear Body Cleanser extends PHA treatment to the entire body. Particularly effective for body acne and uneven skin texture.

PHA vs. other acids in comparison

Properties	PHA	AHA	BHA	LHA
Molecule size	Very large	Small	Medium	Large
Irritation potential	Very low	Medium-high	Low-medium	Very low
Moisturizing	Yes	No	No	Neutral
For sensitive skin	Excellent	Conditional	Good	Very good

Myths and Facts about PHA

Myth: PHA is too weak for visible results

Fact: Although PHA is gentler than other acids, clinical studies show comparable results in skin improvement. The effect simply takes longer to appear, but it is more sustainable and better tolerated.

Myth: PHA cannot be combined with other acids

Fact: Due to its mild nature, PHA combines very well with other ingredients. In fact, they can even improve the tolerance of other acids when combined in a formulation.

Myth: PHA is only suitable for mature skin

Fact: PHA is suitable for all age groups and is particularly valuable for young people with sensitive skin who want to proactively anti-age without irritating their skin.

Frequently Asked Questions about PHA

Can I use PHA daily?

Yes, due to its gentle nature, PHA is suitable for daily use. Nevertheless, start with 2-3 applications per week and gradually increase the frequency.

Do I need sunscreen when using PHA?

PHA does not increase photosensitivity like AHA, but sunscreen is an essential part of any skincare routine and should be used daily.

How long does it take to see results?

Initial improvements in skin texture usually appear after 2-3 weeks of regular use. Significant results are visible after 6-8 weeks.

Can I use PHA during pregnancy?

PHA is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Nevertheless, always consult your doctor before introducing new skincare products during this time.

What concentration is suitable for beginners?

For beginners, concentrations between 1-3% are optimal. These already offer effective results with minimal risk of irritation.

Can PHA cause purging?

Purging is very rare with PHA, as the acid only acts superficially and is very gentle. Any skin reactions are more likely due to other ingredients.

How does gluconolactone differ from lactobionic acid?

Both belong to the PHA family, with lactobionic acid having additional antioxidant properties. Gluconolactone is slightly gentler and is more commonly used in K-Beauty products.

Can I combine PHA with retinol?

Yes, PHA can even improve the tolerability of retinol. Use retinol in the evening and PHA in the morning, or start with alternating application.