Azelaic Acid

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid that is particularly effective in treating acne, rosacea, and hyperpigmentation due to its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and keratolytic properties.

Active Ingredient Scorecard

Azelaic acid is considered one of the best-tolerated anti-acne ingredients and can also be used during pregnancy. It simultaneously combats bacteria, inflammation, and discoloration without causing significant skin irritation.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a naturally occurring dicarboxylic acid originally derived from grains such as wheat, rye, and barley. In dermatology, it has been successfully used since the 1980s for the treatment of acne and rosacea. The active ingredient also naturally forms on our skin through the oxidation of linoleic acid by Malassezia yeasts.

Unlike many other anti-acne ingredients, azelaic acid is characterized by its exceptionally good tolerability. It is not photosensitizing, meaning it can also be used during the day, and is considered safe for pregnant and breastfeeding women. These properties make it an ideal alternative for people who cannot tolerate aggressive ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or retinoids.

In Korean skincare, azelaic acid (아젤라산) is increasingly valued because it perfectly aligns with the K-Beauty philosophy of gentle yet effective skincare. Many Korean brands integrate the active ingredient into their formulations in lower, well-tolerated concentrations.

How Azelaic Acid Works on Your Skin

Antibacterial Effect Against Acne Bacteria

Azelaic acid reduces the population of Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) on the skin by up to 99.9%. A study by Gollnick et al. (2004) in the Journal of the European Academy of Dermatology and Venereology showed that 20% azelaic acid cream significantly reduces bacterial load without promoting resistance.

Keratolytic Effect and Pore Cleansing

The active ingredient normalizes keratinization in the hair follicles, thereby preventing the formation of comedones. Studies by Breathnach et al. (1983) documented a 70% reduction in blackheads after 12 weeks of treatment. The gentle exfoliating effect occurs without the irritation that can be caused by AHAs or BHAs.

Anti-inflammatory Properties

Azelaic acid inhibits the production of reactive oxygen species and reduces inflammatory cytokines. Passi et al. (1991) demonstrated that the active ingredient reduces neutrophil granulocyte activity by 50%, thus alleviating inflammatory reactions in acne and rosacea.

Brightening Effect for Hyperpigmentation

The active ingredient inhibits tyrosinase, a key enzyme in melanin production. Studies by Verallo-Rowell et al. (1989) showed a 65% improvement in post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation after 6 months of treatment with 20% azelaic acid.

Antioxidant Protective Effect

Azelaic acid acts as a free radical scavenger and protects the skin from oxidative stress. This antioxidant effect supports skin regeneration and can prevent premature skin aging.

Who is Azelaic Acid Suitable For?

Integration into Your K-Beauty Routine

Routine Step: Azelaic acid is typically applied after cleansing and toner, but before serums and moisturizer. In a comprehensive K-Beauty routine, it belongs to steps 4-5.

Application Time: The active ingredient can be used both in the morning and in the evening, as it is not photosensitizing. For beginners, evening application is recommended to slowly accustom the skin to the active ingredient.

Combination Rules: Azelaic acid is well tolerated with most other active ingredients. It can be combined with niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and vitamin C. When used simultaneously with retinol or other acids, it should be applied alternately or at different times of the day to avoid irritation.

Acclimatization: Start with a low concentration (5-10%) and initially use the product every other evening. After 2-3 weeks, the frequency can be increased depending on the skin's reaction.

The Best K-Beauty Products with Azelaic Acid

While azelaic acid is not yet as widespread in Korean cosmetics as other active ingredients, there are some promising products that contain this gentle yet effective ingredient. Here you will find a selection of the best available options:

• Paula's Choice Azelaic Acid Booster: 10% azelaic acid in a light gel texture, perfect for getting started
• The INKEY List Azelaic Acid Serum: 10% concentration with additional soothing ingredients
• Facetheory Azeclair A15: 15% azelaic acid with niacinamide for enhanced effect
• Geek & Gorgeous aPAD: 10% azelaic acid suspension with minimalist formulation

Comparison with Similar Active Ingredients

Myths and Facts About Azelaic Acid

Myth: "Azelaic acid is too weak against stubborn acne"

Fact: Studies show that azelaic acid is similarly effective as tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide for moderate to severe acne, but is significantly better tolerated. The effect starts after 4-8 weeks and continuously improves.

Myth: "Natural azelaic acid from grains is better than synthetic"

Fact: Cosmetic azelaic acid is now mainly produced synthetically and is identical to the natural form. The synthetic variant is even purer and more consistent in its effect than naturally extracted azelaic acid.

Myth: "Azelaic acid cannot be combined with other acids"

Fact: Azelaic acid is one of the most well-tolerated acids and can generally be combined with other active ingredients. Only when using several strong acids simultaneously should it be introduced cautiously.

Frequently Asked Questions About Azelaic Acid

How long does it take for azelaic acid to work?

First improvements are usually visible after 4-6 weeks. The full effect develops after 3-6 months of continuous use.

Can I use azelaic acid daily?

Yes, azelaic acid can be used daily. However, start with every other day and gradually increase the frequency to accustom the skin.

Is azelaic acid safe during pregnancy?

Yes, azelaic acid is considered safe during pregnancy and breastfeeding. It is one of the few anti-acne alternatives that can be safely used during this time.

Can azelaic acid cause discoloration?

No, on the contrary: azelaic acid can lighten existing discolorations and simultaneously prevent new hyperpigmentation.

Why does azelaic acid sometimes sting upon application?

A slight stinging or tingling in the first few weeks is normal and indicates that the active ingredient is working. This usually subsides after 2-3 weeks.

Can I combine azelaic acid with vitamin C?

Yes, this combination is well tolerated. You can use vitamin C in the morning and azelaic acid in the evening, or apply both simultaneously.

Does azelaic acid also help with rosacea?

Absolutely! Azelaic acid is even one of the standard treatments for rosacea and effectively reduces redness, inflammation, and papules.

Which concentration should I choose as a beginner?

Start with 5-10% azelaic acid. These concentrations are well tolerated and still effective. Higher concentrations are usually prescription-only.